The Pre-Hatch Baetis Step by Step

 

The Pre-Hatch Baetis is a fly I developed to solve a particular problem at Nelson's Spring Creek in Montana. The problem was that I wasn't catching any fish! I was there in the Fall and none of my typical Baetis patterns were working. Two years later, after coming up with this dropper, I caught the "king of the pool" in the same spot with this fly, and it's been terrific for Baetis out West ever since. It's based on the idea that a Baetis, just before emerging, turns almost black and the thorax swells considerably. I used the "other" side of the turkey quill to make the abdomen for this fly, not the biot side. I did this so that the segmentation would be closer together, as this one is tied on smaller #20 and #22 hooks.

 

Step 1.

Take the thread to the bend and tie in a tail of olive-dyed dark bronze mallard flank feather strands. If you don't dye materials, just use bronze mallard, it works fine as well. Bind the butts down by wrapping forward, then wrap back to the bend.

 

 

Step 2.

Tie in a single strand of the "long" side of a left turkey quill. Tie in on the far side of the hook, concave side toward the hook. If we were using a strand from the biot side of the feather, the notch would be down. However, because this strand is from the non-biot side, the notch will be up, and when wound, the body will have a rough segmentation.

 

Step 3.

Wind the biot forward and tie off at about the 1/3 point of the shank. .

 

Step 4.

Cut a strip of black Thin Skin that's about a hook gap wide and tie it in. Bind down the Thin Skin back over the previously wound quill a little so when it's folded forward it will take up about 40% of the shank.

 

Step 5.

Dub a robust thorax with Olive Super Fine or some other fine dubbing that compacts well. Leave room in front of the ball, about three or four thread wraps worth.

 

Step 6.

Tie in 6-8 olive-dyed bronze mallard fibers, tips facing the bend. Bind down with three wraps only.

 

 

Step 7.

Fold the Thin Skin forward and trap with one wrap behind the butts, one in front, and one more behind.

 

 

Step 8.

Pull the butts of the bronze mallard forward slowly, pulling the legs to length, just a bit longer than the thorax.

 

 

Step 9.

Cut off the butts, wind a head and whip finish. Apply head cement to the thread wraps.

 

Step 10.

Put a drop of Epoxy or Clear Cure Goo on top of the thin skin. I like to start it slightly behind the thorax, so it gets into the body a bit, and work the drop forward, avoiding the eye completely.

 

Step 11.

If you used Clear Cure or some other resin that's cured with a UV lamp, finish it with a coat of Sally Hanson's to get rid of the tacky feel.

 

 

Step 12.

Here's what it should look like from the top. Note the bulbous thorax. I believe that the large thorax and the legs contribute a great deal to the effectiveness of this fly. Only the trout know for sure.